The Denpasar Diaries: It’s time for a REAL adventure in beautiful Bali…!
12th Oct 2023
October is LittlePod’s most important month and, to mark International Real Vanilla Day, we’re taking a trip to our pioneering orchard in Indonesia. Like to come along for the ride? Paul is documenting it all.
Did you know..?
Having first launched National Real Vanilla Day in 2014, this will be our 10th year celebrating October 17th!
October 17th, International Real Vanilla Day, is the most important date on the LittlePod calendar. Dating back to 2014, when we first launched National Real Vanilla Day, this is when LittlePodders come together – in person and online – to raise a toast to REAL vanilla, to underline the importance of a precious orchid to the planet and its people, and to give thanks to those who protect the fragile rainforests where it is cultivated. Since going global with the launch of IRVD in 2020, we’ve celebrated this special occasion in Devon and in London, but this autumn we will express our appreciation to the vanilla farmers in person as we head to the LittlePod plantation in Bali. Joining Janet and Dave in Indonesia is Paul. This is his diary…
Friday, October 20th: In the words of the Terminator…
I’m leaving on a jet plane. Don’t know when I’ll be back again. Janet asked me over drinks last night if I’d like to come back to Bali. Well, you know… if you’re offering! It’s coming to an end, this the final morning of our final day, but what a week we’ve had here in Indonesia. We’ve done such a lot and covered so much ground, yet the surface has been but scratched.
To return or not to return, that is the question. In the words of Arnold Schwarzenegger in The Terminator, I’ll be back…
How could I not want to? Forget the obvious – the food, the weather, the scenery, the pool. Bali is about all that, for sure. But what this trip has underlined for us all is that it’s the people who matter most, who have such a lot to offer, and who make all the difference. Santika, Noguh and the team at Pita Maha. Ketut, Angus, Syiraz, Eka and all at the state-of-the-art facility where our vanilla pods are processed. The Mades, all five of them, Nyomam and all the other farmers doing such wonderful work in the forests. This is what it’s all about. This is why I’d love to come back to Bali one day.
This trip has proved that the work we are doing in the UK is REAL. That the farmers in Bali are relying on us. That the benefits are tangible. If we – as consumers in the West – demand REAL vanilla, the farmers in Indonesia (and elsewhere across the Equatorial Belt) will grow it and the forests will be protected, preserved and, indeed, restored. The benefits to us all will be huge, and it’s all so simple. The image above is a typical example of canang sari, a traditional Balinese offering to the Gods and a gesture of gratitude. Soaking up the sun for one last time this morning, I think it’s me who has the most to be thankful for. Matur suksma.
Thursday, October 19th: There are no bad days in Bali…
I spotted this sign whilst out on Ubud’s renowned Campuhan Ridge Walk this morning. It has proved to be prophetic. I’m coming down with a cold – ironic given the tropical conditions here – and am gearing up for a gruelling return trip that is even longer than the outward journey, this thanks to a SIX-AND-A-HALF HOUR layover at Dubai Airport tomorrow.
Despite all of that, it has still been a good day. Come to think about it, I’m not sure that there’s such a thing as a bad one in Bali…
I took the morning off. Back-to-back days battling the traffic to visit vanilla farms has left us all exhausted. I don’t expect sympathy, because as noted in a previous entry, just to be here is a great privilege. But it hasn’t all been infinity pools and tropical treats and the best food that Bali has to offer. Come to think about it, I’m going to need a holiday after this.
So what did we do with our free time? The aforementioned hiking trail, for starters, a visit to the bustling Ubud Art Market, a little time on a sun lounger and in the pool, and best of all, an Indonesian Cooking Class at the Pita Maha Resort and Spa, where we’ve been having such a wonderful stay. Janet even managed to persuade Chef Noguh to tweak his traditional menu and include REAL vanilla from LittlePod in all three dishes – sweet and savoury. I’m not sure who learnt more, us or him…!
Wednesday, October 18th: Pure bucket list, but better…
I’m just back from the pool. It’s one of those infinity ones – the water lapping over the edge, with views out onto the lush forest beyond and tropical flora all around. There are loungers and fresh towels, the sun is starting to set and it’s a pleasant 27°C here in Ubud. But this isn’t the best thing that I’ve done today.
Today’s highlight? Meeting all the farmers at the LittlePod orchard and spending the afternoon in their environment. I described yesterday’s events as ‘pure bucket list’, but this topped it all…
We travelled there with Made, arriving at Made’s house just before lunchtime, where we also met Made, Made and Made. This can all get quite confusing so we call them Made 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. We were also introduced to Wayans 1 and 2, Putus 1 and 2, Pan Moyo, Komang and Kadek, wonderful people all. Made (1) translated in part, otherwise we communicated through broken English and gestures and abundant smiles. The universal language of real vanilla. We all made ourselves understood.
There then followed a field trip, zipping along the tropical forest track on the back of a moped to see thriving vanilla vines, grown from the original saplings LittlePod supplied all those years ago, as well as coffee, durian, mangosteen and much, much more. To see the polyculture system that Made (1) pioneered here in Bali proving to be such a success was a rare treat indeed, whilst eating coconut fresh from the tree was the icing on the cake (and I don’t even like coconut). Swimming pools? They’re ten-a-penny. This was once-in-a-lifetime stuff.
Tuesday, October 17th: Janet dancing, and justifying our journey…
So that was that then. International Real Vanilla Day. The main event. The reason that we’ve come all this way this week. In truth, it didn’t get off to the best start. The jet lag I thought I’d beaten on Monday? That came back to bite me, meaning an urgent alarm call and a frantic start. Yet from that point on, it has been pure bucket list.
Consider this: I’ve seen a precious vanilla orchid. In Indonesia. On the vine. In full bloom. Given that this fragile flower lasts for just 24 hours, this is a great privilege indeed…
In truth, the entire trip has been just that: a great privilege. This diary’s entries have been, in the main, somewhat tongue-in-cheek in their nature. But serious hat on for just a moment, to be in Bali and to see the things we’ve seen today? It does not get much better and for that I couldn’t be more grateful. To Janet. To LittlePod. To all involved in this wonderful, transformative project, both at home and abroad.
I’ve been to a vanilla farm. I’ve met a vanilla farmer – his name is Nyomam. I’ve learnt such a lot from sharing a car with Made. I’ve spent time with LittlePod’s partners here in Indonesia – Ketut, Eka, Syiraz and others, young men with whom I (and Janet perhaps even more so) have come to admire greatly. I’ve sifted through messages from LittlePodders all over the world and been reminded that there is so much support for what we do. I’ve even seen Janet dance this evening (you’ll need to keep an eye on our Instagram if you want to share this experience). So all in all then, an occasion to savour? There’s no question that IRVD 2023 has justified our journey!
Monday, October 16th: It’s a tough job, but someone has to do it…
The lizard didn’t get me. Or the jet lag. Six solid hours and I feel human again. The most beautiful Balinese breakfast has helped me put the travel stresses and strains behind me this morning. It’s a tough job, but someone has to do it.
Fresh tropical fruit, yoghurt and granola, avocado and eggs, and two cups of Balinese coffee and I’m all set to go. I’m typing this on the terrace, trying to avoid the morning sun (it’s 29°C already) and ignore a gathering of giant ants near-by. It’s far from being a typical Monday…
So what’s on the agenda today? Janet says that we should rest, but I feel as though I ought to do some work while I’m here. The pool beckons, but we have a special occasion to organise, International Real Vanilla Day, and tomorrow’s trip to the LittlePod vanilla orchard, half-an-hour or so from here. This is what it is all about.
It sounds a little bit silly, having been in Indonesia for less than 24 hours, but I’ll travel to the plantation with a much better sense of the people and the place, this short period enough to have changed my perceptions of Bali – the sights, the sounds and the smells all having added to my understanding and given me a fresh appreciation of life on the island. In the limited time I have here I can but scratch the surface, but goodness I look forward to taking it all in. It’s a tough job, but someone has to do it.
Sunday, October 15th: Welcome to Bali…
Planes, trains and automobiles. I’ve been in – or on – them all these last 28 hours. You read that correctly, by the way. Total travel time from door to door, home to hotel was an entire day and night (and then a little bit more, just for good measure).
Taking the last 28 hours into account then, it should come as no surprise that I’m almost too tired to type this evening – or afternoon or maybe morning, whatever it is. The multiple time zones that I’ve crossed this weekend have left me more than a little bit bamboozled…
Diaries don’t write themselves, though, so there’s just time for a quick update and entry. Sunday’s big development? I’m in Indonesia – and so too are Janet and Dave.
We’ve just shared plates of Nasi Goreng (Indonesia’s favourite dish) and travel tales, for our respective schedules didn’t quite tally, so we journeyed separately, via Dubai for me and Singapore for them. Both routes proved to be punishing so we should all sleep well in Indonesia tonight. But will we? Jet lag is an unpredictable thing and I’ve just spotted a sizeable lizard lurking on my bedroom wall. Welcome to Bali…!
Saturday, October 14th: Far out, man…
Here’s an interesting fact about Indonesia: It isn’t just around the corner. It’s a shade over 11 hours since I locked up and left the house this morning and the plane has just touched down. Not in Denpasar, you understand, but rather in Dubai. Bali? That’s still going to require a further nine hours and 10 minutes in the air, not to mention the next three-and-a-bit hours that I’m going to spend here at DBX.
This might be stating the obvious, but it’s a point that can’t be stressed enough. Indonesia is far…
This is the kind of trip that we can’t – and don’t – embark on often for reasons that are environmental, ethical, logistical and fiscal (amongst others) and the decision to travel such a great distance is not one that has been taken lightly. But the chance to spend time with the farmers and amongst the vanilla vines, to strengthen old friendships and to make new ones, and to continue sowing seeds (quite literally) that should – once grown and matured – be so beneficial to so many, is too good to miss.
So the epic voyage continues. It’s a little after 1am local time, it’s 32°C out on the tarmac, whilst inside the terminal, I need to get some rest before the next leg begins. Mile after mile and a little at a time, I’m edging closer to Indonesia. It’s just so far.
Friday, October 13th: This feels like an omen…
Let’s discuss the date. Yes, it’s Friday. Yes, it’s the 13th. No, it’s not unlucky. Quite the opposite, in fact. I’ve never been one for superstitions and how could anyone think there’s anything amiss on an afternoon as splendid as this? The autumn sun is shining, I’m all packed and prepared, and 24 hours from now, I’ll be above the clouds and in the air – Bali-bound.
The LittlePod calendar that hangs in the kitchen tells me that National Baking Week began today. On Friday 13th, it feels a little like an omen. The good kind, of course…
It’s nice to imagine that as we take off to travel to Indonesia – a tropical place where vanilla is grown – a legion of home-based bakers might be reaching for their favourite LittlePod products and getting started on a bountiful plethora of cakes, bakes and other creations with which to celebrate International Real Vanilla Day.
Our outbound flight might be on the 14th, but we’ll be getting in the mood almost from the moment our plane leaves the ground. Having checked in online this morning, we were interested to note that tomorrow’s in-flight lunch menu includes Vanilla Profiteroles for dessert. If that isn’t an omen, I don’t know what is!
Thursday, October 12th: Preparing to take a trip…
It isn’t often in life that you get to go on an adventure. Yet here I am, packing a bag and preparing for Bali. Indonesia awaits and the rainforest calls. The places that LittlePod takes you, eh?
I’m just over 48 hours out from heading to the airport and, I must admit, I’m feeling a little nervous. I haven’t travelled like this for a long time and just once have I set foot in Asia, this a single-night stopover in Hong Kong in 2006 en route to honeymoon in Australia…
What should I pack? How hot will it be? How will I get to the hotel? What about the language? How will I manage in the rainforest? What will the farmers make of me?
In truth, of course, the excitement outweighs all anxieties and, deep down, I can’t wait to get there. What an opportunity this is. What an adventure. Having been with LittlePod since 2015, I’m immersed in the vanilla industry, but this will be my first chance to meet the people who tend this magical crop, and to see for myself the remarkable environment in which it is nurtured and grown. From plant to plate, this experience will complete the circle. What a treat it will be to document it all here…
Like to follow LittlePod in Indonesia? Keep reading Paul’s Denpasar Diaries for regular updates and be sure to follow LittlePod on Instagram…!